12 years as an editorial makeup artist in NYC, here's what I learned...
Can I brag for a little bit? I know I know, that’s really uncomfortable. But I stand around and preach that we’re allowed to be proud of ourselves and that we’re allowed to speak highly of ourselves rather than self-deprecating, so I have to walk the walk.
I just wanted to share with you one of the things I’m extremely proud of and realized that I don’t usually speak about this side of what I do. There’s always talk about the emotional impact associated with my sessions, but there’s a bit of a technical aspect that I believe brings all of those things together.
I spent about 12 years of my life as a commercial/editorial Hair/Makeup Artist in NYC. I was agency represented, I worked live TV shows, celebrities, magazines, brands. I spent the entirety of my adult life in an industry that almost prides itself on its exclusivity.
The entire process is so “other”, so unattainable to the average woman. It’s big and grand and outside of most people’s day to day life.
I won’t lie, that’s one of the things that I loved about it. It was exciting and new everyday. But for all that it carried with it the outward appearance of prestige, behind the curtain it brought endless frustration.
There’s a reason I have positioned my business towards the “everyday woman” and have no desire to pursue the commercial photography industry that I knew so well. The prestige of working for magazines, brands, etc doesn’t hold a candle to the feeling of bringing this “unattainable” experience down from its own high horse straight to women everywhere.
I won’t lie though, my years in the commercial side of the industry have given me all that I need to know to bring you all of the good and fun parts. Which means an experience with me is a little different than what most people in my industry can provide. The hair and makeup is done by yours truly, the kind of application I would do on my clients while on set for big brands and magazines. The lighting I set up for you comes from the knowledge that I unlocked in my brain from all those years in studios working closely alongside some of the most amazing photographers in the industry. My retouching is either done by myself (where I again studied under some amazing photographers and retouchers) or the incredible Honor Heymann who currently retouches for J Crew (and has retouched for brands such as Coach and Josie Maran). The standard I hold my work to is high which is why I won’t settle for anything but the best.
[By the way, if any photographers out there are looking for an absolute superior retoucher, it is without a doubt Honor.]
Apart from the incredible impact these sessions have on the women I am fortunate enough to work with, THIS is what I feel makes a session with me special. I’ve plucked this exclusive editorial industry from its pedestal and have presented it to you in full, something not many people can lay claim to.
Alright, alright I’ll put my ego away for a bit.
Do I need heavier makeup than normal if I'm going to be on camera?
The right makeup makes a huge difference. My photography wouldn’t be what it is if the makeup was strong and aggressive. Dark eyeshadow and glammed up contour… the message is “effortless beauty” not “night at the club”. There are different looks for different vibes, but simply being in front of a camera is not reason to add more than you’d normally feel comfortable in.
Okay I’m here to set some records straight.
For the love of god, you don’t need to wear more makeup just because you’re getting your picture taken. If you cake on makeup, contour, whatever “just for photo” it’ll still look like you’ve caked on makeup. It won’t magically appear “natural”. No, the lights won’t make it all disappear. Repeat after me: That’s. not. real.
On top of that, a lighting change can dramatically impact the look of the makeup. If you’re in natural or moody lighting, it’s going to look darker than it is. If it’s bright, straight on lighting it’ll make it look exactly as it appears in person.
Now, let’s not mix things up. PROFESSIONAL makeup application is a lot different than most people’s everyday makeup application. But to be clear, it’s not the AMOUNT of makeup that is different when a professional does it, it’s the proper skin prep, the right products, the right application, and the right colors for your skin tone.
Not for nothing, but there is a lot of bad information out there about what kind of makeup you should be wearing, so I never ever ever ever let anyone do their own makeup to my sessions. If I had to choose I’d rather someone wear absolutely zero makeup than do it themselves. Too many foundations that don’t match, blush colors that aren’t complimentary (or way too strong), bad eyeshadow, uneven eyeliner, too much contour... I could go on, but I’ll spare you.
The right makeup makes a huge difference. My photography wouldn’t be what it is if the makeup was strong and aggressive. Dark eyeshadow and glammed up contour… the message is “effortless beauty” not “night at the club”. There are different looks for different vibes, but simply being in front of a camera is not reason to add more than you’d normally feel comfortable in.
So let’s say it together! If it looks good in person, it’ll look good on camera! If it looks like a lot in person, IT WILL LOOK LIKE A LOT ON CAMERA.
Why do I love maternity sessions so much???
I’m sure you can tell by now that I have a special place in my heart for my maternity clients. I am genuinely obsessed with the entire experience, the journey you embark on whether it’s your first or third (or more). I know, I know, I’m not trying to glorify pregnancy as if it’s rainbows and butterflies. It’s hard, really hard. But nothing worth having comes easily, right?
I had my kids really young (since most people ask, I was 22 when I had my first kid). I wanted to be a young mom and of course there are pros and cons to having your kids early vs waiting. But this felt right for me.
That also meant that we were relatively broke. We were just coming off of living in Africa prior and during a part of my first pregnancy before moving back to New Jersey. We were still building our careers as most people are through their 20s while simultaneously juggling babies and young kids. I never got the opportunity to have a maternity photoshoot done for myself, and I think that’s one of my driving forces for capturing this moment for people. All I have are mirror selfies, lots and lots of mirror selfies. I’ll be honest, there’s a pretty distinct difference in quality and overall magnitude of the beauty of pregnancy.
Being a mother myself, it’s not just about the shape (although I am obsessed with it). It’s not just about the baby inside either, even though that is equally as important. For me it’s about the power of the woman in front of me. Her strength and her endurance. The ability to create a literal human being, sacrificing her body, her sleep, her comfort. I am obsessed with the journey and transformation that comes from becoming a mother and that’s how I like to capture it. The woman as a whole, not just reducing her to her baby alone.
For a lot of women, becoming a mother feels a little like a loss of self. In front of my camera, you’re whole. You’re you, you’re a mother, you’re a woman, you’re powerful, you’re creative, you’re bold, you’re even still sexy. You haven’t lost any of who you are, you’re only adding to it and becoming a more dynamic woman.
I’m grateful beyond words to be a part of that journey with my clients. To be chosen to document such an incredible time in your life. As much as it feels like an eternity while you’re pregnant, that time comes and goes so fast. If you’re currently pregnant and considering a shoot, please do it. Capture that moment, it will be gone before you know it. Even if you’re feeling some kind of negative feelings about yourself during that challenging (and hormonally charged) time, I promise you won’t regret it. As Moira Rose says, “One day you will look at those photos with much kinder eyes and say, "Dear God, I was a beautiful thing!"
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